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MK Control Horn Installation

Step 9

Now we need to get those dowels ready to glue in that perfect hole you just drilled. Please note that we will cut the dowels with the ends SQUARE to the length - there is NO bevel. (A big plus, in my mind!)

Cut off several inches of 1/2" dowel and test its fit into the hole in the block. Is should be fairly snug. I've found that it's common for the dowels to be slightly oversized, which is great - just chuck it up in a drill and carefully run it while wrapping fine sandpaper around one side. When the diameter is perfect, unchuck it and place it in the surface. Carefully mark the intersection of the dowel with the top and bottom surface at the REAR side of the dowel. That's the length we'll use. Yes, this means that the FRONT side of the dowel will be slightly recessed into the block. Using a miter box, carefully cut the dowels (at 90 degrees) to the exact length you have marked.

There are two ways to go for drilling the hole you need for the 3mm bolt that attached the horn. I prefer to use my vise with the jaws that hold tubing/rods perfectly vertical. If you don't have one of those, then glue the dowels into the wood blocks now, paying attention to get the ends flush with the rear of the hole. Use good epoxy for this step.

Regardless of whether you glue the horns into the surfaces first or drill them before gluing, you need to mark the position for the hole you'll drill. Again, simply use the aluminum MK washer and center it as perfectly as possible on the end of the dowel. Now use a center locater of some kind (Great Planes sells a fine one for under $10) to start/mark the hole location. Again using the drill press, drill the hole for the 3mm bolt. If you are doing this after gluing the dowel in, be sure to use the shuck again to ensure that the hole is drilled vertically!

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